Do any of the wines carrying celebrity names on their labels live up to the star power?

Surprisingly, yes.

No celebrity has had more success in the vineyard than Greg Norman, who may have earned a reputation as a major-league choke artist on the pro tour, but is an unquestioned champion when it comes to sales.

Since retiring from golf, the Australian has parlayed his Shark persona into a global business empire. Among his many ventures are the Greg Norman Turf Co., Greg Norman Collection, Greg Norman Australian Grille and Greg Norman Production Co.

And, as wine aficionados know by now, Greg Norman Wine Estates.

I’m generally suspicious of stars like Norman who spread themselves thin (see also real estate mogul Donald Trump and celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse). But there’s no questioning the quality of Norman’s wines.

The wine industry was stunned a few years ago when the trend-setting magazine Wine Spectator included the Greg Norman Reserve Shiraz among its Top 100 wines of the year. Indeed, it made the top 10, scoring an impressive 96 on the magazine’s 100-point scoring system.

Greg Norman Wine Estates is based in Australia, turning out consistently good shiraz, chardonnay and cabernet-merlot blends for nearly a decade now. More recently, the Shark launched a sister winery in California, where the repertoire includes petite sirah, pinot noir and zinfandel.

Does Norman actually make the wines himself? Not really. Greg Norman Wine Estates employs two professional winemakers, Andrew Hales in Australia and Ron Schrieve in California. But by all accounts, Norman is actively involved in shaping the wines, sitting in on barrel tastings and deciding on the final blends.

Norman’s close involvement in the winemaking process seems to be the exception rather than the rule among celebrity vintners. Two of the most popular celebrity wines these days are Marilyn Merlot, an instant collector’s item thanks to the R-rated images on the label, and Graceland Cellars, whose product line includes Jailhouse Red and Blue Suede Chardonnay.

Even if Elvis really is alive, do you think he’d be hiding out in a wine cellar?

I’ve tried a few of the Marilyn and Graceland wines, and they’re not bad. Though unless you’re a fan and plan to collect them, they’re not worth the money.

One that is, again somewhat surprisingly, is J. Garcia Sonoma County Chardonnay, a posthumous creation of the Jerry Garcia Estate. As fans of the Grateful Dead know, Jerry has become a profitable industry since his death in 1995, selling everything from art to ties to wine. Oh, yes, and music.

J. Garcia wines are produced by California’s Clos du Bois winery, a reliable source of good-value chardonnay, pinot noir and other varieties. I’ve been impressed with the quality of several vintages, and the labels are really cool, too, featuring – what else – details of some of Jerry’s artwork.

Over the years, wine brands have been launched by celebrities ranging from race car legend Mario Andretti to fading pop diva Olivia Newton John to prime-time has-beens the Smothers Brothers.

But my favorite celebrity wine comes from Fess Parker, best known as the actor behind the beloved TV characters Davy Crockett in the 1950s and Daniel Boone in the 1960s. With the help of his children Eli and Ashley, Fess has been growing first-rate wines at his vineyards around Santa Barbara, Calif., for nearly two decades.

Unlike Norman, Parker doesn’t claim to be a wine expert, though even in his 80s he retains the title of winery CEO. For years, his son, Eli, served as head winemaker, bottling a number of vintages that earned 90-plus scores from the likes of Wine Spectator and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, the two most influential consumer publications.

More recently, the Parkers tapped a young winemaker named Blair Fox, who was trained at the University of California at Davis, the country’s top school for enology and vinicultre. Fox’s most recent vintages, including his chardonnay, pinot and shiraz, are terrific, deeply flavorful but not too rich.

Here are some celebrity wines worth watching out for, from Fess and a few others (prices are approximate):

2005 Fess Parker “Ashley’s Vineyard” Chardonnay, $28

2005 Fess Parker White Riesling, $14

2005 Fess Parker Pinot Noir, $25

2004 Fess Parker “Rodney’s Vineyard” Syrah, $45

2005 Greg Norman Limestone Coast Chardonnay, $13

Greg Norman Limestone Coast Cabernet-Merlot, $15

2005 J. Garcia Chardonnay, $15