LEWISTON — People use the word “soiree” too rarely. It has become a prissy word, evocative of exclusive guest lists, polite patter and using one’s pinkie.

The Nutrition Center of Maine in Lewiston is taking it back.

“We’re going to make some fire,” Chef Randall Smith warned attendees to the center’s annual Chef’s Soiree a week ago. A moment later, a flame erupted from his bubbling broth. Ladies holding their white wines flinched in their seats. Smith grinned.

He went on to describe how he uses drumsticks in his Turkey Osso Buco, braising the poultry shanks in the same popping pan where the flames had been.

“It’s a way to use a less premium piece of meat,” Smith said, describing how butchers saw the bulb-shaped leg in half, toss the bone end and tie the meaty flaps with string until the piece forms a ball. “Butchers like to do it.”

For them, it breaks the monotony of slicing bologna, he said.

There was none — monotony, that is — at the Fourth Annual Chef’s Soiree, held on the first floor of the Bates Street Nutrition Center. About 80 people attended the $100-per-ticket event, which raises money for the center’s
programs, including Lots to Gardens and the St.
Mary’s Food Pantry.

The night’s aim was to see how a chef creates a fine meal. Then, attendees got a sample. This year’s event had a Mediterranean theme, with food and drink from Italy, Sicily and Greece.

Chef Dara Reimers, the owner and head baker of Auburn’s The Bread Shack, brought focaccia breads, olive oil sweet cakes and prosciutto. Chef Scott Johnson of Greenville’s Blair Hill Inn made a Greek Pumpkin Pie. Seth Ferris of Central Distributors brought four wines: a red and white each from Italy and Greece.

Mother and daughter Daphne Contraros and Melissa Rioux from Lokonia Greek Products of Saco brought olive oil from their own Greek olive grove and made a bean soup and potato salad.

Smith, a chef at DaVinci’s, followed his restaurant’s owner, Jules Patry, who gave a 10-second primer on the eatery’s famous garlic knots.

With an uncooked piece of dough in his hands, Patry demonstrated the knot:

“The rabbit runs around the hole,” he said, twisting the dough as he laughed. Then, he stepped aside for Smith and his sweet potato risotto and the osso bucco.

As Smith neared the end of his presentation, finished dishes were served to the soiree’s 80 or so patrons. Small plates each held a sculpted drumstick alongside a serving of roasted potatoes. Forks seemed to nudge the tender meat from the bone, until it collapsed into a concoction rich in celery, carrots and onion. Smith described them as the “holy trinity of vegetables.”

A moment later, with plates balanced on laps, applause erupted.

dhartill@sunjournal.com

Tip

When using a cutting board, first place a damp cloth on the counter. It will hold the cutting board firmly in place, giving you the ability to cut and chop with authority.

“It will never roll,” promised Randall Smith, chef at DaVinci’s Eatery in Lewiston.

Turkey Osso Bucco

2 half-pound turkey leg shanks

Kosher salt and black pepper to season meat

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 onions, diced to 1/4-inch size

2 medium carrots, cut to 1/4-inch coins

1 celery stalk, cut to 1/4-inch pieces

4 garlic cloves, minced

12-15 grape tomatoes, cut in half

12 sprigs of thyme

1/2 cup dry marsala wine

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 1/2 cups water

1/4 cup chopped parsley

Place the shanks into a bowl and season. Add the flour and toss to coat.

Heat a heavy saucepan on high heat that will accommodate all of your shanks.

Add an ounce of canola oil and sear both sides of the shanks for 2-3 minutes or until golden brown. Remove the shanks to a holding plate and drain off the remainder of the oil. Place the pot back onto the stove on medium-high heat and add 1 ounce of olive oil. Add the onions and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally for 7-8 minutes or until lightly colored. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes. Add both the wines and bring to a boil, then add the shanks, tomatoes, water and thyme. Return to a boil, cover with a lid and simmer gently for 1 1/2 hours, turning the shanks halfway through. Remove the lid and shanks, simmer the broth for 20 minutes on medium heat to reduce and intensify the broth. Plate and sprinkle parsley over top.

Randy Smith, a chef at Davinci’s, cooked the main dish, Turkey Osso Buco, during the Fourth Annual Chef’s Soiree.

Turkey Osso Buco

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