BETHEL — “Well, y’all are trail angels now,” Appalachian Trail hiker Griffin Nakovich said when my husband, Michael, and I pulled over at the Rusty Lantern Market on Mayville Road to take him and his friends to Grafton Notch.
Nakovich and Anthony Fiorentino, both of North Carolina, and Ollie Swinchatt of Wales in southwest Great Britain were headed back to the trail and we were first-time “trail angels,” people who give hikers a free lift into town.
Lately, AT hikers are all around Bethel it seems. On the trails there is ‘a bubble,’ the hikers explained. The slow walkers who started early and the fast walkers who started later are all in Maine at the same time.
The three we met started hiking in Georgia in April but not together. But with 267 miles left to go, they will likely finish together on Mount Katahdin, the northern terminus of the 2,198-mile trail that stretches from Springer Mountain in Georgia.
The trio crowded into our back seat. We had just come from the transfer station and their backpacks had to share space with our trash barrels. We rolled down the windows and turned up the air conditioning. It wasn’t just the trash barrels that smelled now.
Their good-naturedness soon surpassed the odor.
“My real name is Griffin, I haven’t said it in awhile,” said Nakovich, whose trail name is Neo.
Fiorentino goes by Groundhog.
“Everyone has a trail name, mine is Corndog,” Swinchatt said in a lovely British accent.
A night in Bethel
The night before, a Saturday, they were at Suds Pub in the Sudbury Inn.
“It was good vibes and there was live music,” Neo said.
“Friendly people,” said Groundhog.
“A guy offered to take us up to his off-grid lodge and he put us up for the night,” Corndog said.
“His name was Bill, Uphill Bill,” Neo said.
Groundhog split from the other two and slept in a tent along the Androscoggin River. He said all went well until “it was super loud at 5 a.m. when someone was shooting something with a gun, maybe birds,” he said.
Earlier that day, a man they met named The Professor (apparently, you never lose your hiking name), paid for their meal at Butcher Burger restaurant in Bethel.
“‘Mind if I pay for your’ alls lunch?'” Neo said the man asked. “We suffered through it,” he said jokingly.
The hikers said it was a toss-up, whether to go to Bethel or Andover to stock up on trail supplies. Their friend Backed-up went to Andover initially, then came to Bethel, which he said was much better.
On the trails
“We got such a good weather window in The Whites,” Neo said referring to the White Mountains. “Wall-to-wall sunshine, it was just amazing.”
They agreed New Hampshire was their favorite state, so far, especially the Presidential Range.
“There really hasn’t been a bad state, yet,” Corndog said.
“Pennsylvania was at the bottom of the list for me,” Groundhog said.
Rangeley is next for the threesome, who hope to see their first moose.
Bears, they’ve seen.
“Twenty, so far,” Neo said.
“Ten in one day,” Groundhog added.
Along the way they have met Grits, Barefoot, Toto, Secret Sauce, Hot Pete, Alligator, Witch Doctor, Torch, Skid and Firefly. Many of their names were written on Neo’s backpack.
The three had been hiking about 20 miles per day, but planned to slow down to 12 to enjoy the last month and see a little more season change.
Taste of Maine
When we pulled over at the Puzzle Mountain Bakery roadside stand at 806 Bear River Road in Newry, on cue, a woman in an apron walked out carrying fresh pies.
“These people make the desserts right here?” Neo asked skeptically.
“What’s a whoopie pie?” Groundhog asked.
“Never heard of a whoopie pie,” Neo said.
“Sounds amazing,” said Corndog, “a taste of Maine!”
When I handed three of Maine’s official state treats through the window, Corndog responded, “Oh my god, you guys really are angels.”
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